Wine is more than just alcohol

It's time for restaurants--and us--to refocus

Photo by Doğu Tuncer on Unsplash

Eric Asimov wrote recently in the New York Times about the slow erosion of wine’s place at the dinner table— a lament I found myself nodding along to, fresh off a trip to France. The French may be drinking less than they once did, but wine has not loosened its grip on the meal; it is still poured at lunch, at dinner, at the family table and the restaurant alike. Drive through Burgundy or Bordeaux and you will find that even the man behind the wheel of your cab has opinions about the local wine.

Wine is more than just an alcoholic drink; yet today it’s too often lumped in with unhealthy addictions. People on both sides of the Atlantic have sipped it in moderation for centuries, facing far fewer health woes than those linked to tobacco, obesity, excessive sun, sedentary lifestyles, processed foods or sugar.

Though some treat wine like a cocktail, most savor it alongside their meal. It completes the experience, elevates the feast and makes us feel special. Most of us reading this don’t simply plop a random grocery-store bottle on the table; we consider its pairing, study the grape, trace its region, and sometimes even know the grower behind it. Can you do that with water?

Wine is an adventure—a chance to explore a place’s climate, culture and winemaking philosophy. But do restaurants embrace this? Or do their lists simply echo whatever’s fashionable—Meomi Pinot Noir, Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio, La Crema Chardonnay, Da Vinci Chianti, and the like?

On my visit to France, I saw familiar Burgundies and Bordeaux on menus. But, I thought, why go all the way to France to sip a familiar wine we had in the United States? Instead, I trusted the sommeliers, who led me to a fragrant clairette from Provence, a crisp cabernet franc from Saumur-Champigny and an Austrian Grüner Veltliner—wines I never would have discovered on my own.

Sadly, too many diners cling to a safe label or grape variety. Wine lists often offer no guidance—no tasting notes, no suggested pairings—just bestsellers or high-scoring bottles chosen to move inventory. Many restaurateurs favor big-production labels they can reorder easily. I once dined at a spot whose one-sheet wine list changed so frequently that selections felt rare and momentary. I returned often just to see what the owner had discovered. That was good for his business.

The wine industry’s woes stem from relinquishing its story to health crusaders and temperance zealots. To climb out of this slump, advocates must reshape the narrative, reconnecting wine with food and well-being. It starts in the restaurant, where wine yields higher margins than food. We need imaginative lists, clear tasting descriptions, pairing suggestions, daily specials—and staff well versed in their wines. Owners should invest in training, hosting after-hours tastings and seminars, so every diner leaves with a genuine appreciation for wine’s role at the table.